Aperitif

The word aperitif comes from the Latin aperire, which means to open, as in opening the appetite. The drink comes before the meal, so it should be light. Choose something dry or bitter, with less alcohol than dinner wine. A spritz fits the role. Serve it cold with small salty snacks such as olives or nuts.

In Italy the same idea is called aperitivo, an early-evening ritual with a light drink and snacks. In France it is the apéro. A Campari and soda also fits the bill. Pair the drink with the snacks you already have, since the aim is to wake up the appetite, not fill up.

A lot of home bartenders assume an aperitif is a type of liqueur. It is not. It is a role, not a category, so any light, dry drink served before a meal counts, from vermouth to Champagne. The opposite job goes to a digestif, which comes after the meal and is usually stronger, sweeter or more bitter. Timing decides it. Before the meal means aperitif, and after it means digestif.